When Lash Lift gives you lemons, you grab the tequila and salt…. Haha no don't do that!
We have all been there before with good and bad days no matter who you are, even the best educators! I have been doing lash lifts for so long that when I started they were called perms and the solutions came in little vials/ bottles and we had to bend the rods. Yeah they were kind of a nightmare but its 2020 now and lash lifts have definitely advanced! The key is don't get too deflated, keep going and start troubleshooting, remember we are working on the human body, every single one is completely different!
The FIRST thing you should do when either a step throughout the process of the treatment goes wrong or this is no lift is to find out the 'why'.
Why did this happen? What can I change to fix this in the future and ensure it doesn't happen again? This is where we have stepped in to help you overcome any of these common problems with troubleshooting in lash lifts.
1. The glue isn’t working! The lashes aren't sticking to the rod and they keep popping off the rod? This could be a few things!
Let's start with how old is the glue? You can tell if it is old if it is very stringy/claggy. For longevity of your lash glue ensure your lid is completely secure at all times and upright. Check the expiry date or note when you opened the bottle.
When adhering the lashes to the shields/rods ensure you don't have too much glue as this can make it take too long to stick and make it seem like the glue is not working, it also can affect the lash lift solutions penetrating the lash. Use a small amount and work in sections across the rod.
Some lashes are very stubborn and need a little extra amount of glue and then the lashes to be held down a little longer while the glue dries and is pressed into place. If you find some of the lashes are not sticking go back through using a micro stick and apply a tiny amount and hold this on at the tip for added strength and hold, this doesn't affect the solutions or process.
Secondly did you perform a lash cleanse prior to the application? Was this an oil free cleanser? If not, cleansers that contain oils can counteract the glue and not stick very well.
2. There was no lift, the lash lift didn't work?
If some of the lashes were thick or very straight they were not processed for enough time. For normal / average lashes your processing times (with the elite system) are 5 min step 1 and 7 minutes step 2 and for very thick and straight lashes you want 6-7 minutes step 1 and 7-10 minutes Step 2. Our Lash lifting system is very fast, you do not want to over process. If there was no visible lift at all and you have assessed the dried state of the lashes and there is no visible lift you can perform a relift at the same appointment time however, your processing time must be decreased by half or less the processing time. You may proceed with re-lifting the lashes again for half the time of the initial processing times.
*Also it is important to understand that these are chemicals and this is a chemical process to the natural lashes, the ingredients need to be stored correctly and mixed well before application for perfect results.
Was enough of solution 1 used? You want a good coating evenly applied on the lashes so that you can't see the lashes underneath, ensuring this has not been applied to the very base or the tip. Placement of solution 1 is meant to go onto the mid section of the lashes but if the lash lift didn’t work then next time you can put solution 1 a little bit closer to the root the lift is more lifted than last time.
3. My client had stinging or an irritation?
In all of my time lash lifting I’ve only had one reaction to a lash lift. This client was immune deficient and we knew there was a chance. Most of the time an irritation will be to the eye pads or the tint. It’s best to patch test this or ensure the client has previously had tinting done. It’s very rare the reaction is to the actual solutions themselves unless they have been put in the clients eye or skin, the skin around the eyes is very delicate and sensitive. The lifting solution is not meant to touch the skin (also why you can not do brow lamination with our system). If any stinging occurs check to ensure your solutions have only been applied to the lashes and are not in the eyeball. If the solution has leaked into the eye remove immediately and rinse. The client should not have any stinging or discomfort.
4. The Lash lift didn’t last?
This can be from a few things, it's important to educate your client on their aftercare. Some things that may make the lash lift drop. If the client wets the lashes within 24 hours after the lash lift, exposed to excess heat, rubbing their eyes or the lash lift wasn’t processed enough and next time leave the solution on for a few minutes longer.
5. The lashes seem over processed crispy/frizzy after the lash lift?
This is from over processing due to the solutions being left on too long. (you must time your lifting steps) Occasionally this might not be seen immediately but the lashes will begin to show signs of damage after a period of time, it might be only a few hours up to 24 hours later or it might be a few weeks later.
You will need to assess each client's natural lashes (strength); it may not always be determined by sight alone. Factors for assessing the lash strength are the thickness, density and curl that the client presents with. During the rod application you may notice that the lashes are more resistant to staying attached to the rod.shield and this might give you an indication that they have a stronger lash core. Ask your client questions such as if their hair when curled stays in, if they process colour quickly at the hair dressers, etc. Your client might have identified to you that when they curl the hair on their head it drops quickly and this might give you some other indicators that they have stronger lashes. If your client mentions that their hair is incredibly fine (you can tell) or holds a curl very well, this might indicate a finer hair structure and a faster processing time is required. *Medications and hormonal changes also can be a factor for clients lash strength/resistance.
When lash lifting, you are deforming and opening the structure of the lashes chemically. The hair will be compromised from this, it is so important to follow manufacturer's instructions and take care when lash lifting.
5.My clients lashes have been over lifted?
You can do a lash lift reversal, this is when you will straighten out (relax) the lash lift using your step 1 and step with mascara spoolie straightening the lashes or over lifted lashes.
If you have any questions or wish ti upskill, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org
Training for lash lifting can be found here.
What have you learned that has helped you improve your lash lifts? Let us know in the comments below!