Lash extension troubleshooting and excess lash loss
Take a seat grab a wine its a long one! 🥂
Had clients coming back with next to no lashes or the "I've lost them in one eye" Stop doing free refills because you could have a paying client on your lash table! Let's get your lash retention on point so there's no more stressing over it and you have time to be making money!
Let's start with the fact Lash extensions are a semi-permanent way of making eyelashes seem longer and fuller. Lash retention is 50/50 artist and client. Lash extensions require regular maintenance know as Infills because they go through their a lash cycle and fall out so here are some reasons that would make your eyelashes fall faster than normal after application.
Your client is trusting in the expertise of the person applying the eyelash extensions (you) it varies from one to another. There might be a technical error in the application from poor education. The Lash artist/technician might not properly adhere the lash on or may use insufficient adhesive. Another possibility of error is that the artists or tech can neglect to prep the lashes before applying the extensions or miss inform the client on aftercare.
Lash Cycles and Growth
Hair/ Lash growth is actually a preset function in the body. Every hair in the body follows a specific growth cycle and grows to a certain length. There are 3 phases in a Lash Cycle.
Anagen, catagen and telogen the first stage is the growth stage, in which lashes actively grow and last about 40 days. After this, growth comes to a halt, the next stage involves a period of no growth, then finally the lash falls off and is replaced by a new one.
The whole cycle takes about 6-8 weeks, so your natural lash is due to fall out when this time elapses every lash grows at a different rate. You could be applying the Lashes at the end of their lash cycle so an excessive shed could happen within the first 7 days. I educate my clients and explain the lash cycle phases as their anger is baby, teenage are catagen and adult are telogen lashes once your adults fall out your teenage become your adults and so forth.
Environment and Surroundings
It's not as easy as people think, (just a Lash tech 😣) We don't just glue on an eyelash anywhere and this is an art as well as constant education and training to upskill our techniques.
Eyelash adhesive science is essential part of retention we at all times need to know the requirements of our adhesives all suppliers are different, adhesive needs humidity to cure and is temperature dependent aswell so if your salon or lash room environment is not what your adhesive requires they will either be curing before you apply and causing a brittle bond or remaining wet (not sticking) when you brush the lashes during the application they will come off 😢 so frustrating after isolation picking up the lash and eveything else so this is why your humidity and temperature needs to checked before you start lashing and throughout your appointments read our humidity blog here.
Cleansing before any appointment is required this is not a step to miss even if your pre-appointment states to come with clean lashes. Perform the lash cleanse ladies you won't regret it! Cleansing the lashes removes any dirt and debris on the lash line and lashes there are many great cleansers available designed for Lash cleansing we have one 🙌 if you haven't seen or know how to do a cleanse please see here on our YouTube channel.
So once you perform the lash cleanse to remove all the excess cleanser you must rinse with saline if you don't you will not have optimum retention for your client. So rinse and then pat dry with a tissue or fan
Exposing to extreme heat and oil.
We all know that heat and oil break down the bond between the lash extension and natural lash so educating your clients in the service is so important. Avoid oil-based products anything with PEG (Polyethylene Glycol), Hexalene Glycol, Butylene or Propylene Glycol found mainly in facial products that also avoid coconut oil, rose hip oil generally eye creams can be used or if used avoid the eye area altogether.
NO MASCARA - this just builds upon the lash extensions and can create a film on the natural lashes causing the natural lashes to not bond to the extensions being applied.
Many people ask about chlorine and salt water affecting your lashes I have been advised that it has a very minimal effect on the adhesive, however, it is advised to rinse with normal water after swimming in the ocean or swimming pool as soon as you can.
Wheather can also effect lash retention we know this around the season changes when it's extremely hot and the cold winters hits (mentioned below). My personal experience is that my lashes shed a lot faster when I was in Thailand because of the heat and high humidity, as well as I, was sweating because I'm an aircon queen and very rarely am out of aircon 😂. Our lashes are designed to stop debris from falling into our eyes so when we sweat from heat or gym etc the sweat goes into our lash line and slowly starts breaking the adhesive down remembering our skin to produces natural oils, so again it is important to wash them as soon as you can after being exposed to heat and oils.
Medication / Hormones
It may not be common knowledge, but medications can cause eyelash extensions to fall off. Thyroid medications can alter the environment around the lash area. The result of the medicine may involve becoming oilier, drier or more brittle. Every person lashes generally respond differently. Some vitamins may cause your hair to grow and others may cause your hairs to fall faster. Imy clients notice that when it's their monthly time they tend to lose more than so we schedule their appointments after, not all but over the last few years my clients and I noticed this. Other medicines may cause the eyelash extensions not to stick at all. It depends on the medicine and its reaction in your client's body.
Human beings are mammals and as such we still experience seasonal lash sheds in both spring and autumn just like how our pets moult. At these times of the year, your clients may go through a period of losing more than their normal amount of Eyelash Extensions. Their natural lashes will be going through a major lash shed, taking extensions with them. Some may notice it with their hair head as well. Their natural lashes can look thinner and sparse where the anagen lashes are starting to grow through. Clients that experience this will need to reschedule sooner for infill. If you are uncertain as to whether a client has had a lash shed or no when they come back for an infill and inspect the lash line you will see growth of the new baby lashes (anagens)
If your client has had an excessive lash loss within the first week how to troubleshoot and rectify the issue follow these step and identify if it was one of the below.
1.Adhesive How old is the adhesive? How did you store the adhesive? What was the consistency of the adhesive when applying the Lash? Did you use enough adhesive? Change the adhesive every 15 minutes or when the consistency changed?
2. Cleanse and preparation of the Lashes
Did you use the cleanse the lashes with a lash cleanser?
Did you rinse with saline and dry the lashes? Oily skin? You must prime, and they need to cleanse daily.
3.Consultation Form Completed?
Hormones, medication – thyroid.
4. Humidity and Temperature
4. Humidity and Temperature
What humidity and temperature whilst lashing?
Was the temperature and humidity consistent or was it changing through the day?
Is your adhesive curing time slow or fast enough for your speed?
Are they adhered at the base?
Did you apply the correct length suit for the natural lash? Not applying the correct length means it can cause damage to the natural lash and due to the weight will cause it to fall off prematurely.
Does the client have oily skin?
Hot showers, saunas, heated pools
Wear makeup, eyeliner mascara? 😣
Skincare routine makeup -oil-free cleanser
Skincare routine makeup -oil-free cleanser
Life Style? Job occupation are they exposed to high heat and oils such as chefs.
With all the information above and the troubleshooting guide, i hope this helps when you have a client with poor retention or excessive lash loss in the first 7 days.
Ps. Always be confident and educate your clients on what the process involves,aftercare etc because you clients will know you are great what you do.